Day 10 June 27

Wake up to a warm morning which will soon become a very hot day and then finish cold and wet. It's like being back home. We try the bus today. After a few jitters we work it out and we're soon at Kyoto Station. From there we take the JR line to Inari to take a walk  around the Fushimi Inari Shrine. Mainly famous for it's row upon row of... actually I'm not sure what you call them. A corridor of orange posts that lead to the mountain top. It is a fantastic sight and starts off crowded then thins out as you go higher up the hill. I was not in the mood to do more steps today so while the others went ahead and returned down the mountain. Of course I went the wrong way and wandered down into an artisan village around the side. Which meant I had to start climbing back up the steps to get to where I made the wrong turn. The shrine itself is huge and teeming with tourists.
We then take a train (quick) and a bus(really really slow) to the Golden Pavilion. This is a gold plated shogun house. It takes us over a hour to get there for what is basically a photo. A nice photo indeed. We're back out in 15 minutes and get back on the bus but this time it's packed. We are crushed against the door and each stop more people get on. Elderly women kind of wish through you and into the centre of the bus. It sometimes happens on trains too but this is madness and it will last 40 minutes so we jump off at Emechi to catch a train. One stop later we're at Nijo Castle but we're too late! It's closed. Ion is too many transfers so we decide to just go for a stroll around the shopping district. I get in a few record shops and Liz gets her phone fixed (Remi dropped it the other day and it was impossible to see any of the screen through the many spider web like cracks)
For dinner we cross over the main street to an older part of town where there is a little river and a pizza truck. The pizzas are delicious and we sit outside an old museum type building as drops of rain start to fall. A light rain starts to become a heavy rain as we head for our last stop which is the Kyoto tower. Only 150 metres tall but the observation deck is very much like a space ship. And the lights of Kyoto glisten in the rain. We head down to the sky lounge for some over-priced drinks and say goodbye to Kyoto in style. Kind of.
Back home on the bus and the rain is pouring down. So we get soaked. So does our washing which was hanging on the balcony. It's after 11 and tomorrow we head for Hiroshima so we retire slightly damp.

Day 9 June 26

It's Sunday so it means we might have to face some crowds today. We head first for Arashiyama National Forest which is only one stop from where we are staying. The trains are immaculate with velvet seating and seats for one person. Very comfortable. Getting off at the station we basically follow the hordes. Across the bridge and very loud river complete wit small waterfalls we enter the small town. Lots of girls are walking around in kimonos and there are plenty of places to hire them. A bit of a tradition here. The streets are crowded and we make our way up to the temple which as these beautiful gardens Liz would like to see. This leads to the Bamboo Grove which is a delight. There are so many people taking selfies it's crazy.
From there we head to the Monkey Forest. A bit of a steep climb but we are rewarded with monkeys roaming free around us. Plus spectacular views of Kyoto. You are not allowed to stare at the monkeys so we avert our eyes a lot. Then we go into a cage and feed the monkeys through the wire. Lots of fun. We wonder what happens if they jump on you and soon find out as a tourist as it happen to her and this security guard dashes across the compound. The monkey makes a swift retreat. Still it's all a little bit wonderful.
We catch the train back into town and start to make our way to the Manga Museum. The streets are bustling and we have seemed to picked the busiest one. Lots of different food on display here and the aromas are thick and mouth watering. We don't have a clue what any of it is. I drop into Joe's Garage to look through the records quickly so as not to stop our momentum.
Soon we are at the manga Museum and what a joy it is. Everywhere you look people are reading manga comics. Outside in the gardens, amongst the exhibitions, just everywhere. You can read almost any manga ever made. We have come for the King of Pop exhibition featuring the work of Eguchi Hishashi and it's just brilliant. I walk around it twice. Downstairs we read Manga as we wait for an artist to paint our kids as Manga characters.  I love this museum. Even the gift shop is fun.
From there we walk down to Jet Set Records to have a quick dig while Liz looks for a new bag. Feeling a bit hungry we go into a noodle shop and I try the Kamage noodles. A big bowl of noodles with dipping sauce. Messy to eat with chopsticks but delicious. We plan to head to Kyoto tower but Mel is feeling sick so we make our way home.  There are a trio of comedy buskers by the station but we don't get the jokes. Ah!

Day 8 June 25

Looks like it's going to be a long days travel. We pack up all our things and then leave them at the front desk before going for a walk to the local shrine and look at the incredibly high trees there. There are supposed to give off energy and we're going to need it today.
First we take the bus to Misima station. They call it a highway express but it was quite slow. I'm not sure if we even got on the highway. From there we caught the Shinkansen to Kyoto. Waiting on the platform as other bullet trains went past the speed was incredible. If they didn't stop at the platform the just suddenly appeared for a few seconds as they flew by. The one we were going on was one of the fastest. The Hikari. So we zoomed across Japan. All a bit of a blur except for the Panasonic Ark which stood out because it looked like something from outer space.
Reaching Kyoto we realised we had to make 3 train switches because of their complex ownership of railways. The family looks tired as we walk between different stations and up and down stairs loaded up with bags. Eventually we reach Kamikarusa where our apartment is. It's raining and we have to find the place. It's about a 15 minute walk but it seems so much longer. And when we get there we can't find the front entrance.
Inside it's a pretty amazing looking flat but missing any kind of instructions how to operate stuff. Nor or there any glasses to drink out of. It's pretty big and there's 3 bedrooms which is unusual for Japan but the mattresses are very thin. Oh well. Liz and I go for a walk and find we're next to quite a busy little area with a Uniqlo store where we buy a few little things. We also try and buy groceries. The milk thing is scary but we get it right this time. No so the sugar which is something else altogether. I've got a google translator but I forget to bring my pocket wifi.
We pass a Korean BBQ on the way and decide we'll eat there tonight. Gathering up the kids we go back to the restaurant and we're ushered to the back to a more traditional eating place. In faltering English they ask me how much I want to spend and we work out the dinner like that. Kicking off with  there most popular dish beef tongue we start to get a bit scared about what might be coming. But Remi and I like it. Tastes a bit like bacon really. Everything else is a bit more normal but incredibly flavoursome. We converse with the owner and he gets us to try little things I can't pronounce. Home to a glass of wine and bed.

Day 7 June 24

Woke up to Mount Fuji obscured by clouds. No matter because we got to see it yesterday. I do feel for the travellers who come today though because theres not even a peep. From what I hear many travel here to see Fuji but you have to be lucky this time of the year. And we were.
Today we decided to hire bicycles and ride around Lake Kawaguchiko. Girls bikes mind you. But the land is flat and there won't be any problems.
It's a beautiful ride and Liz is already putting it down as a highlight of the trip halfway through it. The landscape is stunning. We stop off at not one but two lavender festivals. The second one we try some of the food stalls. Liz try a sausage but it turns out not to be cooked all the way through. So we grab a corn stick. Which is better. I try a local beer. And pick up some sake for later.
Up and down the smallest of hills and right around the lake.The weather is just right. Looking for the centre of town where we might get a bite to eat I notice a toy museum so we head there to have a look. It's small but it's brilliant. All toys are made in Japan. I notice I have a few copies of the robots. I like the tin boats as well. One part of the museum is devoted to 7 inch picture sleeves. A record museum too. Amazing. And so well set out.

At the gift shop I check out the robots for sale. Top robots by top designers with top prices too. One robot I liked seemed to have an extra 0 on the end but no it really was around the $900 mark. I had to settle for a smaller Masudaya Radicon robot. A copy of one of their 1950's "Gang of 5" robots. To get a real one would cost about $58 000.
When we come out of the museum it's starting to rain just a little but across the road Liz spies a baseball hitting/training nets. So we all have a go at hitting baseballs. Liz does well with the 80km pitching. Stupidly I try the 100km pitch. I think I hit the ball 3 out of 25 times. I should of worn my glasses.
Then the rain really starts to come down so we abandon plans to ride into the centre of town and start to head back via the supermarket. At this place we're away from town so we're cooking our own meals and we fall back on to the old standby of pasta. Looking at all the different foods on display is pretty mind boggling though. And don't mention the amount of fireworks on display. Ruby is diving to buy some. (secretly so am I) Anyway I pick up a pack of sushi for later. There's also a bread shop too and the breadstick we buy tastes amazing. We cook up as soon as we drop the bikes off and have a relatively early dinner. We haven't really eaten since breakfast. This happens a lot.
After dinner Liz and I go back to the onsen for our bathing. I'm used to the etiquette now. When I walk in I see other shoes lined up but it's some one just finishing so I'll have the bath alone. This time Ruby tries it too. Calm and relaxed we come back and drink our sake (plus a beer from the vending machine) and watch the original Night of the Living Dead.

Day 6 June 23

Another big day of travelling today. First we have to pack our bags and leave the submarine house. It's raining outside and miserable and the walk to the station gets us wet. We call into the tourist information centre to say goodbye to the girls who have helped us so much. Then it's back on the trains. First to Shinjuku. Then the bullet train to Otsuki. And then we ride the Mt. Fuji Express which is a very cool looking train. Arrive at Kawaguchiko around 2 pm and it's a beautiful day but Mt. Fuji is obscured by clouds. Everyone warned us we might not get to see the mountain at this time of the year.
Picked up and taken to our villa by the Lake and everything is explained to us. "And one more thing" seems to be the catch phrase. The room itself is lovely but there is no couch to sit on and there are only four channels on the TV and they are all in Japanese. So we head out to the lake for a walk. Mt. Fuji is still covered by clouds but we can now see the tip of the mountain and the clouds are moving. After about 30 minutes the clouds pass by and Mt. Fuji is revealed in all it's glory. And it is beautiful. A little bit magical. The photographers all pop out from everywhere. Liz and I sit on the bench and just look at it. The kids go back to the villa.
The cottage is self contained so on the way here we were taken to the super to buy groceries. Making a cup of tea we find we have bought coconut milk. Later we would realise the eggs we have bought are pre-cooked. A trip through little rice farms to the 7-11 store is need.
After all that walking Liz and I go for a soak in the onset which is deep spring baths. Very very hot. Because you can't wear bathers we're little bit nervous. I go into the men's onsen and luckily I have it to myself. As does Liz next door. Sitting in a hot bath, outside, with a twilight view of Mt. Fuji was simply just amazing. The vending machine next to the onset sells beer too. What a beautiful world. The state of bliss leads to a very early night.

Day 5 June 22

Today we decided to take the bullet train to Hankone primarily to visit the Open Air Museum. We've been looking forward to travelling on a Shinkansen since we first saw one. We took the local train to Shinagawa where we were to catch the train. Reserved seats. And very comfortable they were. Actually I had just settled down to reading the new Ray Davies biography after viewing the countryside for a bit when we arrived at our destination. From there we took a much slower train and then an even slower one. The train journey was getting hard. But then we started moving up the mountain and into the national park where the scenery was breathtaking. It all became a bit puffing billy. As we rose up the mountain we found ourselves up in the clouds.
At the station we came upon a very misty village. A short walk and we were in the museum. I'm not that big on sculptures but places like this quickly change your mind. There's the Henry Moore sculptures I had to write about in Art way back in the early seventies. A Rodin piece I recognised. Some great contemporary work. And then there is the Picasso exhibition. There are works I've never seen before even in books. I didn't know he did all this glass artwork or that he diversified into so many areas. Mind blown.Just brilliant and worth the long journey.
We also bathed our feet in the hot springs too as our feet were worn out from all the walking. We stayed at the museum so long that we never got a chance to look around the town much as it was closing time. We did stop and have a bite to eat though at at a Toy Story themed restaurant where he a lovely little curry and a glass of beer.
After taking the long trip back to Harajuku the others called it a day. We picked up some bento boxes on the way for dinner. However I went out to Roppongi to meet a parent from school who was here working on an art project. Geoff Nees and his colleagues met me at at place called Yakitori. They put a heavy mug of sake in front of each of us. Very strong and tasted potent. The others then proceed through a course of chicken on skewers. First chicken hearts, the neck the liver and so on. Unfortunately I had eaten twice in the last 5 hours and there was no room for anything. I did try the liver though and with a sip of red wine it tasted immaculate.
To get to Roppongi I had to use the Metro and it was easier than I thought. Roppongi reminded me a bit of the old Kings Cross. Every few steps a guy in a suit was strung to get me to come into their fine establishment. Travelling home after midnight I notice quite a few men in suits sleeping on their way home. I must admit that I was ready for sleep myself.

Day 4 June 21

We were going to have a bicycle ride around the palace today but woke up to a rainy day so cancelled that idea. Then of course the rain stopped our plans togo to Hankone. So we decided to go instead to Electric Town. Back on the train for a ride to the other side of town to Akihabara.
Stepping out of the station the visual assault is pretty full on. Every building is plastered with signs. It looks amazing. So much to look at. But we're hungry and we commit a terrible sin and go for a quick McDonalds meal. We know it's bad and Ruby tells us off but it seems to be just what we need. Bread snacks are too sweet and searching for a local place to eat is time consuming with the kids humming and hawing.
We go in search of Super Potato. 3 floors of Retro gaming just for Remi. Every console ever made. Again. Mind boggling. On the top floor there are a bunch of old arcade games and despite the room stinking of old cigarette smoke we play a few of the old games. The one I play used to be at the Lizard Lounge when we first started and I would play it as we waited for the punters to arrive. I was rubbish then and still am now. Super potato is very cool.
We move on. There seems to be a lot of Maid Cafes in this area but we are not tempted to eat there. We find a shop which is 3 floors of cuteness and adventure though and as models from Star Wars to Studio Ghibli. The presentation is fantastic and a shopping trip is mostly spent looking at displays.
We find a bit of a gourmet supermarket at the train station and buy some stuff to make our dinner with tonight. Pasta! It's western food day!
We head back to the house where after dropping off todays purchases I head back out again to do some record digging in Shibuya while the family rests. Head to HMV first where the amount of records is staggering. I could spend hours in here easily. Buy a few records and then walk around the corner to Disk Union and buy a few more. Head back to the station stopping for a quick video call from the middle of Shibuya Crossing to Michelle Liz' sister. I notice that there a quite a few others filming there walk too.
Meanwhile Liz as been shopping in the Paris end of Harajuku. With the trees and high fashion shops I can see the resemblance to the Champs Elysee. We meet up in Kiddy Land of all places. Super cute and very loud. Disaster as struck though and Liz's phone as taken a tumble and the front is completely cracked up. Remi won't be holding that for a while.
Back to the house for a late pasta dinner and our first red wine. It all goes down well and I head back to 7-11 to get another one. Cheers

Day 3 June 20

Slow start today as we are heading firstly to the Owl cafe which is just around the corner. Toast and coffee and baseball on the TV and then we're off. The Owl Cafe is 4 flights up. We enter a small cafe which is divided into drinks and owls. A quick apple juice and we're in with another American family surrounded by half a dozen owls. The American asks if we know of Casey Chambers. Seems he interviewed her for USA Today last week. When you bump into other travellers you always try to make connections.
Anyway the Owls were amazing. Soft to the touch and just magnificent. I had a rather large one sitting on my arm for a while. It was heavy and light at the same time if that makes any kind of sense at all. The colours were so deep. The kids loved it and the time went very fast.
From there we caught the train to Tokyo Tower. It was a choice between that and the Sky Tree which is the tallest. But I find the Tokyo Tower more iconic. And it looks great. On the way we pass another large shrine whose name escapes me at the moment.
Looking at Tokyo from the top of the tower you can see how vast the city is. No way we could see all of this in 5 days. Each district has it's own character. After this we head down to a small park and relax for a short while before heading to Katano Broadway to see all the anime shops. We seem to be going round and round on the train system. At one stage we are at the front and can see through the drivers window which is pretty cool.
Katana Broadway is pretty amazing and shops are full of amazing toys. Most I've never heard of but pretty soon we find our way into Star Wars and Simpsons territory too. There's a small exhibition of the work of Takashi Matsuyama which we delight in. Then I come across a Gigantor model. Brilliant. After deliberating for a bit I make my first Japanese purchase.
Then we go to this most amazing shop which is just full of antique toy robots. And the floor is lit up. And it's just a delight looking through antique toys. I forgot to write the name of the shop down though. I'll have to do a bit of research and find the names of these places.
By this time it's 8pm we're all getting tired and need some food.We head back to Shibuya and a place called Genki Sushi. While the gang are waiting in line I pop over and grab an adaptor from Bic Camera.  Cheap, unlike the useless one I bought in Melbourne. Back at Genki the deal is you order your food by iPad type thingy and it travels on a monorail to your table. The food is great and it's lots of fun. We love the food and the kids eat squid so it's a win all round. It's getting late and the family are tired from a full day so reluctantly we head home. Not without spending time soaking up the atmosphere of Shibuya just a little bit longer.

Day 2 June 19

Despite how tired I was last night I'm still awake at 6 am in the morning. So I walk down to the kitchen and use this strange kid of coffee teabag thingy which is really good. Better than the real coffee we have later. Everyone else is sleeping soundly.
First up is Remi so around 9 we decide to go for a walk around the neighbourhood. Nothing is open but we walk down Takeshita Dori. Shipowners are getting ready and shutters are coming up. It looks pretty wild already but we keep moving until we come to a small garden oasis around the corner. There's a fish pond with these what I would call giant goldfish swimming about. And turtles. When we come out of the park we're lost in Japan. But with the help of pocket wifi and google maps we find our way home. Pick up some bread at 7-11 on the way home . A six pack. Six slices only. So I have to buy 2.
At home everyone is ready to leave so it's back to Takeshita Dori. Now it's packed. People viewing is pretty high here. Girls dressed up to come to the street. Some guys dress up but in strange costumes. However the rock and roll/punk look is pretty big too. It's all a bit gaudy. And move through there, round the corner to the nicer shops and then to the Yoyogi Park to see the Meiji Jingu temple. I grabbed a snack to eat on the way and as I put it my mouth at the entrance to the park a security guard told me off. We walked up to the temple there which was beautiful and not too crowded. We were planning to see more of the park but we took a wrong turn and ended up at the railway station. Not wanting to turn back we hopped on the train to Shibuya.

From there we made our way to Shibuya Crossing. Which was just amazing. All the lights go red and hundreds of people cross at the same time.
Everyone else is hungry so they go looking for food while I look for a record shop. Google maps don't help and though I'm only 1 minute away from Disc Union i just walk around in circles. Luckily they have volunteers on the street that are there to help. I think I must be the first to ask because they all cheer when I approach them and a girl starts filming. The guy I'm talking to decides to actually walk me there. His friend comes too. And the girl filming. I then do an interview as we walk and at the end film a testimonial. Brilliant.
I've taken so long to get here that only spend a short time looking and will come back on my own in a few day.
Meet up with the others and after a look around head back to Harajuku to rest.
Back at the house we crash for a few hours before heading out for dinner. We're back on Takeshita Street though it's all a bit commercial so we try to go out the way. Settle on a place next to the station. Very small and packed with Japanese. Always a good sign. Liz and I have noodles which are fabulous. Our vegetarian Ruby's okay with hers. (It took a long time to explain no meat to the waiter! ) but Remi's not so big on his dumplings.
It's time to go back to Shibuya to see it at night. Standing on the corner watching the world pass by at Shibuya Crossing is quite magical. Is this what they refer to as an influence on Bladerunner's set design? We go for another walk around the neighbourhood. We see a Deadpool themed restaurant and Remi is very excited. It's 10.30pm and Tower records is still home. 6 floors of music. Great to wander around and we get caught at the J-Indie section listening to this great CD from a Japanese band called Never Young Beach.
But it's getting late and the rain is tarting to come down so we make our way back home. Trains are still packed and first up we catch the wrong train. Because all announcements are in English we soon realise our mistake and get back on the right train in minutes
Back at Harajuku the rain is really coming down now but we make it home a little wet and with tired bones just after midnight.

Day 1 June 18 2016

Off to Japan today and the plane leaves at 7am so we aim to be at the airport by 5am. Like 2 hours before. So which means we get up at 3am to get ourselves ready. Leave home about 4.10am. Drive through cold and drizzly Melbourne to drop off our car at A1 Parking for the next few weeks. Everything goes smoothly and we get there at 5am. Turns out it's a domestic flight to Brisbane so we had quite a bit more time up our sleeves.   So begins the long days travel.
Two hours to Brisbane. Customs. And we're away. The airplane trip seems long and we wonder how we fly all the way to London. Remi and Ruby get a little sick. Then again it was a bit of a bumpy ride and at one point I felt rubbish too. Then again we'd been up since 3.

But then we land. Narita airport.And it's warm and we smoothly pass through customs. Pick up our JR Pass and catch the Narita Express to Shenagawa then another train to Harajuku. We see the famous vending machines lining our way but unfortunately the time of being able to buy beer from them is gone. Sad face.
At Harajuku we are met by Masa the guide to the Air B'N'B house we're staying at. The area is quiet and we are asked to not talk too loudly as it is a quiet neighbourhood. The house looks amazing from the outside. Very thin and 3 stories high. Not many rooms for all of us but space to retreat.
After a chat with Masa (not talking outside on the phones) Liz, Remi and I go and look for something to eat. Time as slipped by and it's nearly midnight so we grab noodles and and couple of Asahi beers.
Which we quickly consume. Kids of, course don't have the beer.
Then it's off to bed.